2001 Audi TT 225 Coupe - lite1979

Discussion in 'Car Journals/Projects' started by lite1979, May 24, 2012.

  1. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Well I got one thing figured out, but it's leading to more problems:

    [​IMG]

    What you see there is the o2 harness connector above the charge pipe. Turns out since the housing broke last time I was working in that area, it allowed the connector to be hooked up backward, hence my bad circuit. Unfortunately, I think this hosed the 02 sensor. New scan:



    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AMU.lbl
    Part No: 8N0 906 018 K
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
    Coding: 06710
    Shop #: WSC 06701
    VCID: 397330FC2342B31
    TRUWT28N711021023 AUZ5Z0Y9303044

    5 Faults Found:
    17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1
    P1113 - 35-00 - Internal Resistance too High
    16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
    P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
    17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1287 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
    P1296 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2012
  2. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Put the new O2 sensor in, hooked it up (the right way), let her warm up and cool down, then warm up again. Fresh battery from Carquest is in and she starts just fine on her own now. No Check Engine Light, no other idiot lights other than the "Airbag" one that's mentioned in the first post. The ABS is still suspect, though, as while driving around the neighborhood it would engage when coming to a complete stop, though I was no where near slipping. Rotors are definitely rusty. I plan on transferring the plates from the Explorer to the TT on Thursday (I'd prefer to keep both on the road, but I'm still trying to find a better job). I'll post another scan later tonight if I have time. I'm currently in the process of moving, and just got the key to the new place.
     
  3. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Auto scan from a few minutes ago (just the engine section; nothing else has changed):

    Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
    Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

    VIN: TRUWT28N711021023
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AMU.lbl
    Part No: 8N0 906 018 K
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
    Coding: 06710
    Shop #: WSC 06701
    VCID: 397330FC2342B31
    TRUWT28N711021023 AUZ5Z0Y9303044

    5 Faults Found:
    17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
    P1116 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
    P0130 - 35-10 - Malfunction in Circuit - Intermittent
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
    17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1287 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
    P1296 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000


    Still no check engine light after letting her warm up in the driveway, and the "intermittent" status of all faults make me hopeful. Should I clear all DTCs and drive her? I'm past due for inspection, so it's kind of important that I get this taken care of within ten days of putting her on the road. I can't really leave the neighborhood and put any significant miles on her until she's wearing some license plates.

    I also noticed my gas gauge fluctuating both while driving and while sitting in the driveway. I'm guessing this is voltage related, but should I do a gauge self-test just to be safe?
     
  4. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    The gas gauge seems to have calmed down after driving it a bit. I put her on the road yesterday and drove to work and back and to my new house and back to my old one. IIRC, there's two sending units for the fuel level in this car, so sitting still, it would make sense that they would be off and give different levels, especially after letting it idle in the driveway the last several months.

    Still no check engine light, but I have nine days to get an inspection. The only thing wrong with her as far as that's concerned is a very small power steering fluid leak on the right side of the rack. If anyone knows someone willing to overlook this detail, I'll happily follow up on that lead. If not, I have a friend of a friend of a friend back home who's willing to pass her.

    I am not looking forward to doing the headliner, but it's driving me nuts, so it'll probably get fixed before the heater core does. A/C blows cold still, though!
     
  5. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    After doing some reading, it looks like the sending units can get stuck and fail to send the correct level to the gauge, so I'm going to do a gauge test with VAG-COM first to make sure the needle goes from empty to full and back, then I plan to remove the sending units and clean then up. This is way down the road, but at least I found some other mk1 TTs with the same problem.
     
  6. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    I put some techron in the tank for now and plan to do that for the next few fill ups to see if that works for the sending units, but I ran into another problem:

    Yesterday while moving stuff between my old house and the new one, the engine misfired and the CEL blinked a few times. It went out and the car ran great the rest of the day (I made a few trips between both houses, drove to work and back, then drove home after filling the car up with the rest of my clothes). Today, I started the car, drove it to the old house, got my box fan and the few things I saw that were mine, and drove to work to check my schedule. She drove great the whole way there. Once I left work, I felt the engine miss, and sure enough the CEL started blinking again. I'm hoping it's just a coil pack or the harness, but I have to find my spare coilpack to find out. More to come.
     
  7. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
    Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

    VIN: TRUWT28N711021023
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AMU.lbl
    Part No: 8N0 906 018 K
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
    Coding: 06710
    Shop #: WSC 06701
    VCID: 397330FC2342B31
    TRUWT28N711021023 AUZ5Z0Y9303044

    8 Faults Found:
    17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
    P1116 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
    P0130 - 35-10 - Malfunction in Circuit - Intermittent
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
    17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1287 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
    P1296 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
    16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0300 - 35-00 -
    16687 - Cylinder 3
    P0303 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
    16685 - Cylinder 1
    P0301 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
    Readiness: 0000 0000




    Obviously the last three codes are what I'm looking at, but what would misfires on both cylinders one and three? Bad harness? It sure is hot out today...
     
  8. KurtCav

    KurtCav Posting- God

    So, when was the last time the coil packs were changed?

    If it's 40k or more, changed all of them.
     
  9. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    That's what I was thinking, too. I've only changed one of them since I got the car three years ago. I made sure to buy a spare in case this happened, but since I've misfired on two separate cylinders, getting four seems like cheap insurance. Where should I buy them? I got my previous two from Autopart International, but I forgot which brand they sold me. I'd prefer to pick up something local since I have to get an inspection, and everything was going swimmingly until now.

    Edit: Would this have anything to do with the Techron? You're supposed to add it to an almost empty tank, but since my gauge was acting up, I added it to about 1/4 of a tank, then proceeded to fill up with 93, which is what the tune is designed for.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  10. KurtCav

    KurtCav Posting- God

    I would only use OEM coil packs. They should be less than $25 a piece at the dealership. I always have ordered mine off of ECS tuning for $20 a piece.

    EDIT: you probably have the bolt down type. the prices I mentioned are for the push down type needed for my AWP.
     
  11. mahoneybags21

    mahoneybags21 Well-Known Member

    If you need some coils until yours come in for your inspection shoot me a text, I've got 3 spares you can borrow
     
  12. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Thanks! I actually picked one up yesterday before work so I'd have two extra when the four OEM ones from GAP come in, but it's raining now, so I'm going hope it clears up soon. The GAP order should be here by the end of the day, but if it doesn't, and I replace #1 and #3 and still have problems, I'll text you. I accidentally erased your cell# though, so if you could text me real quick, I'll save it. Thanks in advance.
     
  13. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    On closer inspection, the ground wire that's fastened to the valve cover near cylinder #1 has its insulation cracked in three places. I wonder if it's also the ground for cylinder #3...
     
  14. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Put the four new coil packs in, wrapped the ugly ground wire in electrical tape (I know, I know, but I'll replace the entire harness eventually; just give me time). The TT purrs like a kitten now. I'm going to clear the codes and see if I can set readiness for all the systems, then I'm looking for a benevolent soul who will overlook my tiny, tiny power steering leak and pass her for inspection. If anyone has any leads, let me know. Thanks!
     
  15. KurtCav

    KurtCav Posting- God

    99% of 1.8T ignition problems are coilpacks. Glad you resolved it.
     
  16. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    I got her inspected last Friday, and she's been running very well since I replaced the coil packs. I'm noticing some squeaking up front over bumps, and I think my upper strut mount bearing/bushings may be shot. They were gone when I got the car and I replaced them then, but from what I've read they go bad very quickly on these cars. I also think my sway bar bushings may be bad, since I hear a "thunk" every time I back the car up. It's been doing that since I got it, too.
     
  17. lorge1989

    lorge1989 Posting- God

    Just be happy its on the road! Lol I'm sure you are.
     
  18. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    Trust me, I am! It's so nice getting 20mpg compared to the 11mpg I got with the Explorer. Speaking of which, anyone want to buy an Explorer?
     
  19. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    I think the ABS sensor will be the next thing I tackle, though the headliner is really bugging the piss out of me. At least I know I can do the sensor in a few hours. The headliner may be a two-day job. More to come! Also in the good news department, my attorney has a 1999 VW New Beetle for a project car, and is willing to let me work off his fee for defending me, so I'm hoping it needs a lot of work. He said he got it with 230k on the clock, so I have my fingers crossed.
     
  20. lite1979

    lite1979 Printing Shit!

    My gas gauge problem was solved by using two containers of Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner. I put one in before filling up when I first put the car on the road, though I only needed 12 gallons of gas. I then filled up with 93 without adding any, as I was in a hurry and very far from home. Last time I filled up, I put another bottle in, and the gauge is finally reading accurately, so no need to pull the sending units! Yay!

    The ABS will definitely be the next thing I fix, as I'm 100% sure I can do it with the tools I have now.
     

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