Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Car Journals/Projects' started by budsdubbin, May 12, 2011.
So its been a while but hey you get all tangled up in the chaos life throws at you. Anywho last year before h20 I got the water/meth kit back in with a 325cc injector (well around that). Mounted a 2.5gallon tank in the rear with the pump located in the spare tire well to keep it from taking a shit like the others. Ever since I have been ripping 3-4th gear burnouts at 32psi. No timing pull on pump gas but I turned the boost down to 26 and added a bit of timing to the base and I am pretty happy with how its running. So i will be taking it to the dyno in the next week or two so I can get an idea of where I am at.
After that I have to decide my next move soon here. My tranny has been developing a whine on decel most likely from the input shaft bearing/slop. Which would also explain the random mishifts, wandering steering wheel on and off the accelerator. Its a common problem with the o2m but its not a easy fix. So if I go in to do that I will have to get a lsd, bullet proof my forks, and I really want to lengthen my gears. 1st and 2nd are a joke even on stock turbo so I want to source tdi final drives possibly 3.68? which should drop my cruise rpm about 500-1000rpm.
sell it or I could go 4mo but it depends on whats the best bang for my buck at this point.
Awesome to hear you are still at it.
I hate to be that guy but have you given any thought to a chassis change? I guess everyone has a tendency to build what they have/sort of fall in love with what they are used to, but a TT would be sweet, maybe something older so you don't have to work about emissions? I think a Haldex'd 20th would be the best, just not really cost effective like you said.
Just find a wrecked R or TT and do the awd swap
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I've decided to go through my old transmission and replace input shaft bearings along with differential bearings. There doesn't appear to be any issue other than normal wear on every gear.
I also picked up a newer GLI transmission so that I can service it if need be without splitting the case. I'll be ordering a peloquin soon and throwing that trans together hopefully in the next week. Switching over to a clutchmasters pressure plate and 8 puck disc for hopefully a bit more clamp then back to the dyno. I am on the ropes about sending the turbo out for a compressor upgrade just yet but we will see.
oh and I almost forgot First base line (no timing added 8-10*?) then clutch took a poop after I started adding more timing and boost.
Good work! The LSD will surely make the car more enjoyable on the street!
Everyone loves LSD.....
Meth is not bad either
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good to see this build still going! I was wondering how long the 02M would hold up.
What meth kit did you go with?
o2m is bullet proof minus the fork pins backing out. Mine actually almost backed out half way!!! Thank god I pulled it apart to take a look at it for shit and gigs. Other than that the fluid was thin and the bearings are a bit worn.
I'm building a newer GLI o2m instead of my 20th for easier service in the future. Anyways I'll be ordering the diff this week, the o2m FZQ should be back together and in the car shortly after. Its back for round two on the dyno because I feel like my setup has a bit more in it. Hoping for mid 400's but the 30r needs a rebuild so we will see.
Oh I've been dealing with snowperformance since 06 and they have a great tech support team. I've been through 2 pumps now on my third and it's lasted 2 years now. It's an updated pump with better seals/internal check valve along with 220psi adjustable operating pressure. We trouble shooted failures and corrected the issue and I could be happier.
update: new transmission/clutch/limited slip are in just broke 550miles on the new clutch today and shredded tires in 2nd gear for the first time in months!!!!! so much fun its like a new car Ill get more into the details later. its turbo season boys!
this thing sounded nasty from like a mile away haha
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So the install of the limited slip went smoothly 13mm bolts all around the case. Pull the trans shift tower or selector assembly after removing the 16mm lock pin for the shift tower then pry up. Pry the case apart on (you'll need to remove the C-clip off the input shaft if you have a newer o2m/o2q). Then flip the case on its side and slide the selector forks with input shafts out then you can get to the diff. Thanks to Collins for letting me use his drill press for the 1/2 rivets.
Installed diff and measured for new shim thickness to include correct preload.
Driving out the old race is impossible without actually welding a bead for a ridge to drive it out
After realizing that the input shaft bearing for this GLI o2m had spun itself into the case causing play in the input. I spent weeks of looking through every 6spd VW trans in the parts lookup and found nothing. So I made one with what I had. The idea is to keep the bearing race from spinning inside the bore of the case without throwing off the alignment of the gearsets. Pic in the top right shows the issue this trans was having (again this was the salvage transmission I picked up in NJ).
Welded shifter forks with high grade bolts instead of the roll pin rivets.
Then Installed the newer better o2m just to find out the new clutchmasters fx400 hit the bell housing. It literally sounded like the tranny and motor were coming apart at the same time lol......Had to gind a small section of the bell housing. Threw it back in put 550miles in the last week on it and I couldn't be happier with the results.
No real clutch chatter, gear engagment is butter, and with the ball bearing input shaft rather than the tapered bearing it drives/idles soooo much smoother. Also the final drives in the GLI are a little longer 3K rpm puts me around 75ish. So it saved me about 300-400 rpm. The Peloquin feels pretty badass in 3rd when you can feel the car trying to grab the road. Next update will be a trip back to the dyno
Nice! I was always worried I was going to have to pull mine out to weld the shift forks.
I'm interested what the new dyno results will look like.
I feel like it all depends on the use of the vehicle, how the transmission has been driven and how much vibration thats transmitted from the crank all the way to chassis. Any decreases in dampening of chassis vibration/movement from stiffer motor mounts and even suspension components I believe has a strong effect of how those rivets hold up. Power shifting or high load shift while your transfering gearsets can also have an effect but I believe this has less of an effect than age, milage, heat cycling and chassis vibration.
GTI will be back on the dyno the moment we have a decent week of weather. GT30r needs to be rebuilt (60k on this turbo I believe).