This is my daily driver. I live in Seneca Falls and work in Ithaca. I would say I average about 25 - 30mpg with it on my drive to work. (about 30 miles along route 89) Its a blast to drive, but I want to bring my mountain bike to work so I can ride afterwards. I'm looking to get a passat wagon so I can put it in the car where it's less likely to be messed with so the GLX has to go. Price: $3000 obo Good points (in my eyes): - Timing chains done at 220k. (water pump, oil pan gasket, lower block oil gaskets, valve cover gasket, thermostat, t-stat housings, metal "crackpipe", etc replaced when doing the timing chain job. I have pics and receipts) - new drive axle - new outer tie-rod ends - OBD1 with OBD2 connector, less stringent inspections then OBD2 - BPTD skid plate - h&r 60/40 cup kit - mk4 shift knob - lightened crank pulley - smoked e-codes - smoked turn signals - fogs (needs glass on one) - swapped the interior switches (all of them and the radio.) to red. - reverse light gauge faces (red and white) (which at the moment have decided not to work.) - stainless lines - mk4 rear caliper's - full turn2 poly stage 4 mounts and solid g60 motor mount - poly control arm bushings - stainless(aluminized?) techtonic's? (not sure it was on it when I got it) cat back exhaust (regular steel extension under bumper skin) - 5 or 10mm spacers in rear (I forget off the top of my head) - metal "crackpipe" (won't crack like the plastic ones) - synthetic oil changed every 3k miles - leather interior with heated front seats Things that need to be worked on. - Exhaust just after the cat is in need of repair, the one part that isn't stainless is sagging slightly and rubbing on the bottom U protector. - Rear brake slider boots need to be replaced (I have replacement boots) - Dash cluster gauge lighting has gone dark (it works sporadically). I have run new power to them but it's not working, It needs more troubleshooting - making a "scraping" noise when turning at low speed, Not brake or wheel bearing related I think it's the exhaust or strut bearing. i've jacked it up but have not been able to recreate the sound. I will try again to locate this week. - abs light is on, haven't had a chance to get it scanned to see which one. - rear door mechanism's are freezing open, I've got a couple good ones ordered and on the way here from a southern car with no rust. - coil pack needs to be jb-welded or replaced (I was gonna try the jb-weld first, I've got an extra coil pack) - one front fog has lost the glass cover (it still works) - Rear spoiler needs to be put back on The ugly: - It's got cross drilled rotors on it, but they're getting pretty grooved. While the pad thickness is decent and they aren't pulsing, it is pulling slightly to the right when braking. I think it will need a brake job in the near future. (I've got rear pads for it which would go with it.) - front jacking points underneath are pushed up (have always been that way since day one) - Rust is rearing it's head - it's got quite a few miles on it (but timing chains and water pump just have been done) I've tried to put as much info as I can think of off the top of my head into the description, Overall I think it's a decent ride, the e-codes work amazingly at night, and I've got a few spare parts that I would send along with it (OEM lights, radiator support, and some other things) I have the original oem bbs rims with summer tires on them. But they need at least one new tire (I was going to buy 4 new) The steel rims and snows that I've currently got on it could be included if the price is right. With the timing chains done the car should be good to go for another 100k (on the engine anyway) if you are interested email (email@example.com) or call 315 - 651- 2725 - Todd Old pics (I'll try and snap some new ones) My Photo Gallery - picKLE version 0.3 Some taken last year (I know old and it's dirty) There's surface rust in spots now as well ... still you'll get a rough idea.