Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'All Non-Euro Cars' started by vw to bimmer, Apr 27, 2017.
Finally got the buckets done!
removed jute and put in foam to help stop seat top compression.
Added an 1" thick piece of foam instead of the cotton. With reliefs for the listing wire access.
Had to cut a slot in the seat bunn for the mid horizontal listing access.
I have more assembly pics but I'll jump to the end:
Fairly pleased with the results.
I might take the lower seat bottom on the drivers side apart in the future and remove the 1" additional foam because I need to slide my legs in sideways to get into the drivers seat under the large steering wheel. Or I might just eventually change out the "bus" steering wheel for a smaller wheel, then there would be no problem.
There rear side panels are now complete:
They were hacked up for one speaker and a back seat light?
Here are the replacements blasted and painted.
Starting to apply felt padding:
After lots of heating and pulling and stretching and gluing!
Puzzle of reassembling the convertible top frame, done. Most of it has been powder coated the other areas painted after being sand blasted.
Now the real challenge, the top install !! (might wait a bit on this and work on other tings first)
Wow how impressive this is it looks beautiful! Ur patience and execution is amazing I wish Id didn't rush thru my stuff and took time like this you do.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Thanks, some times I even think that I am rushing. Having to make a decision on what method to do something and will anyone but me notice. Like on the convertible top the engagement pins were chromed when new. I was contemplating on re chroming them but instead just power coated them. I can see why a "true" nut and bolt resto is so $$.
Looking great! Looking forward to seeing this on the island this summer!!
Decided to tackle the dash:
Took apart and/or sprayed all switches with deoxit to get full function back to everything. Only unknown at this point is the tach (separate project)
It is the typical spyder dash that has pitting of the surface.
So I decided to cover it with an appliance grade "brushed stainless" adhesive.
Took many hours of drawing and test cutting to get an exact pattern in Autocad, used my laser to cut out a template.
I think it turned out quite presentable, yah I don't have the lettering, but it looks better than a pitted mess and $$$$ less than replating.
Also, replaced all the snaps and clips in the rear stainless vert trim. Tried to weld the cracked ends on (it worked but, there was no way I was going to get the weld not to be visible I made up cover clips)
Looking good man, very nice job on the dash piece.
I had a chance to get the tach dialed in and all looks good! I used a testing unit I had put together for a ecu that I built for my bmw and it worked like a champ.
I have basically redone the whole dash and under car wiring harness and replaced any questionable wires and replace any connectors that did not look good.
Probably when overboard on all the connections, tinned all the wires, put on new ends and then added a bit of solder to fully wet the connections.
I also ran an extra 10g wire right to the trunk through the harness connections to use for head lights with relays, put in a few extra wires in the tunnel harness just in case....
Also adding 10 Ohm 10w resistor in parallel with the gen light in prep for alternator conversion.
Electrical things make my head hurt. Loving the progress though.
No such thing as going over board when dealing with vintage car electrical.
They were borderline subpar to start with.
Well the top is on and turned out well for my first, this pic is just before I finished up the front welting.
I decided to do a bit of mechanical work and take a brake from aesthetic items.
This weeks task was doing the differential:
I brazed the openings in the posi carrier to keep it from cracking off and re machined.(a known weakness)
Also Picked up a 4 spyder carrier:
Setup diff with all new Timken bearings as per the manual, setting inital backlash:
Testing pinion turning torque after setting preload:
After 3 changes in shim depth using slip bearing I am pleased with the final pattern:
Still working on custom aluminum cover but otherwise all set and moving on to trans rebuild.
Disassembled the two 64 transmissions I had, cleaned up the cases and dye checked for cracks, did the same thing on the differentials to make sure there were no issues.
Then I power coated the transmissions to match the differential.
Still have to take apart the mainshafts and check them out. I did find that some of the countershaft bearings in both transmissions were pitted and need to be replaced.
This weeks update:
I milled a new top for the differential case. Sort of a learning experience with feeds and speeds, turned out ok. I did fin the top and the inside.
I finished rebuilding the transmission with new bearings, replaced the blocker rings with NOS ones that I was fortunate to get ahold of. Putting all the needle bearings back in place sort of reminded me of the game "operation".
Here it is mated to the diff, diff cover painted with a light coat of black paint and used the factory vent. I also tapped drain plugs in the trans and diff to make oil changes easy.
This is awesome. Great work.